Monday, September 21, 2009

The Joys of Village Living

On Saturday we completed the first homestay. My family was almost 40 minutes late to the closing ceremony, but the academic director was even later so it didn't matter...oh African time! I said a prayer on behalf of the students, lead a setswana song, and had to do a speech because I'm the designated "kgosi" or chief, this week. Mogobane has about 2,400 people and most of them seem to be related or at least know each other. A bunch of children actually learned my Setswana name (Sebaga) and would yell it each day as I walked the 20 minutes from class. I was sad to say goodbye to my family. I lived with Francinah and Mokgolo, older folks who have 7 grown children and many grandchildren, and their granddaughter Ntabesing lived with us too. She's 19 and we clicked right away. She would translate for me, take me to visit her cousins and friends, and explain things to me about Botswana culture. One funny tibit: in Botswana when you have a visitor you are supposed to always walk them halfway home. However, in actuality whenever we would go to walk someone halfway it would mean that we would walk to their house and hang out for 20 minutes or so until they had to walk US halfway back! My house had electricity but not running water inside, but we visited her cousins who live in a 2 room, nonelectric, house. I loved sitting there in the dark letting them play with my head lamp and trying to learn how to dance like them as they played clips from their cell phones. Life can be so rich, no matter where you are.

Some stories:
-One day our Setswana class was interrupted by someone telling the teacher that some "justice was going to be administered at the kgotla" so we stopped class and watched a man get 2 lashes on his back. Apparently he highly insulted his parents and the elders somehow. It may seem barbaric, but instant justice has it's perks. He can go back to work now, humiliated, instead of leaving a family without any income for food by going to jail for however long.
-I got to go to a funeral. Someone joked with me like "are you going to cry?" and I was like "haha, no way, I didn't know this lady!" and then when we got there and the community was gathered outside with the sun setting, the old people with their beautiful wrinkled faces there, and they sang as they carried the casket into a church, I did almost cry. The harmonies were so rich and exotic to my ears. I had to cover my head and shoulders and I probably looked ridiculous-- the price you pay to be respectful!
-I visited my family's cattle post. Next to diamonds, cattle is the largest source of income for Botswana. My family owns 58 cows, which is a whole lot for that area. You traditionally have to give 8 cows for a bride price, in case you are interested. Anyway, we walked way out into the fields and saw where the cows graze and the kraals they use and the hut where the herdboy stays. I felt like I was in the Outback. It is interesting to think that some people spend a lot of their lives out in those quiet fields.

The Gabs homestay starts in 2 days. If it is as good as Mogobane, I'll be satisfied!

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