Thursday, September 24, 2009

Things that are similar...but different

Here is a list of things that I've noticed are slightly different here in Botswana:
-"Coke Light" instead of Diet Coke
-Lots of Pineapple Fanta
-"Tomato Sauce" instead of ketchup, and it's spicy
-The norm is 3 1/2 spoons of sugar per cup of tea
-Different alcohol brands: "St. Louis", "Black Label", "Savannah Dry" are popular
-If you are living with other women, you'll probably see their chests a few times
-Bathing is called "Bath-ing"
-Driving on the left side of the road
-A very common sauce for rice is just ketchup&mayonnaise
-Along the street you can get a delicious buffet of food for about $2...normally rice/pasta/maize meal, fried chicken, sauce, beets, cole slaw, and/or grilled beef
-The ice cream man rides a bike and uses a hand horn to get attention
-Nice houses almost always have electric fences

That's all for now!

Monday, September 21, 2009

The Joys of Village Living

On Saturday we completed the first homestay. My family was almost 40 minutes late to the closing ceremony, but the academic director was even later so it didn't matter...oh African time! I said a prayer on behalf of the students, lead a setswana song, and had to do a speech because I'm the designated "kgosi" or chief, this week. Mogobane has about 2,400 people and most of them seem to be related or at least know each other. A bunch of children actually learned my Setswana name (Sebaga) and would yell it each day as I walked the 20 minutes from class. I was sad to say goodbye to my family. I lived with Francinah and Mokgolo, older folks who have 7 grown children and many grandchildren, and their granddaughter Ntabesing lived with us too. She's 19 and we clicked right away. She would translate for me, take me to visit her cousins and friends, and explain things to me about Botswana culture. One funny tibit: in Botswana when you have a visitor you are supposed to always walk them halfway home. However, in actuality whenever we would go to walk someone halfway it would mean that we would walk to their house and hang out for 20 minutes or so until they had to walk US halfway back! My house had electricity but not running water inside, but we visited her cousins who live in a 2 room, nonelectric, house. I loved sitting there in the dark letting them play with my head lamp and trying to learn how to dance like them as they played clips from their cell phones. Life can be so rich, no matter where you are.

Some stories:
-One day our Setswana class was interrupted by someone telling the teacher that some "justice was going to be administered at the kgotla" so we stopped class and watched a man get 2 lashes on his back. Apparently he highly insulted his parents and the elders somehow. It may seem barbaric, but instant justice has it's perks. He can go back to work now, humiliated, instead of leaving a family without any income for food by going to jail for however long.
-I got to go to a funeral. Someone joked with me like "are you going to cry?" and I was like "haha, no way, I didn't know this lady!" and then when we got there and the community was gathered outside with the sun setting, the old people with their beautiful wrinkled faces there, and they sang as they carried the casket into a church, I did almost cry. The harmonies were so rich and exotic to my ears. I had to cover my head and shoulders and I probably looked ridiculous-- the price you pay to be respectful!
-I visited my family's cattle post. Next to diamonds, cattle is the largest source of income for Botswana. My family owns 58 cows, which is a whole lot for that area. You traditionally have to give 8 cows for a bride price, in case you are interested. Anyway, we walked way out into the fields and saw where the cows graze and the kraals they use and the hut where the herdboy stays. I felt like I was in the Outback. It is interesting to think that some people spend a lot of their lives out in those quiet fields.

The Gabs homestay starts in 2 days. If it is as good as Mogobane, I'll be satisfied!

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Go siame

So I've been here about 9 days! I dont even know where to begin-- I've already seen wildlife and gorgeous flowers, met a paramount chief and played in a drum circle. I've started to figure out the transportation system of "combis", minibuses that zoom around the city, but not without some accidental added walking. We drink the water and eat plently of meat here, which is completly different from traveling in India! Also, you should know when you picture Botswana that it is pretty modern. There are malls, KFCs, and lots of cars. I haven't seen much sign of poverty yet, even. When diamonds were discoverd here a year after independence, it helped the economy become stable and prosperous compared with elsewhere in Africa. Also, it's dusty and semi-arid here, so my feet get super dirty. Luckily it's not too hot yet, but it will be soon! The people here live up to their reputation for niceness-- they are helpful with directions and greeting is expected anytime you enter somewhere. My favorite thing is walking by someone who is looking at me expressionless and saying "Dumela Mma/Rra" and seeing their face light up into a smile.
Botswana was never a colony, only a British protectorate, so it doesn't have the same 'footprint of colonialism' that is left on many other african countries. There is very little racism, and the first president even married a white woman! I can't say we aren't treated a little differently because we are white (it's assumed we are wealthy, for sure), but it's not too bad.
Today we leave for our first homestay (there are 8 of us in the program) and I'll be living with an older couple and their son and grandchild in Mogobane. No internet in the village! It should be very interesting. I"ll update when I get back.

So I guess the point is Im doing very well and can't wait to learn/see/experience more!